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The drum turns, the timer counts down, and at the end of the cycle the laundry is as damp and cold as when it went in. A dryer that runs without heating is one of the most common calls we get, and the useful part is that the list of possible causes is short.

It is short, though, only once you know one thing about your machine: does it heat with electricity or with gas? The two use completely different parts to make heat, so they fail in different ways. Look at the back of the dryer. A flexible gas line and a standard household plug means gas. A large, heavy plug in a dedicated outlet with no gas line means electric.

Before anything else: three checks for every dryer

Is it set to heat at all?

Air Fluff, Air Dry, Wrinkle Release and some Delicate settings use little or no heat on purpose. A dial knocked one notch, or a cycle chosen by someone else in the household, explains more no heat calls than you would expect.

Is the vent clear?

A blocked vent rarely stops heat on its own, but it is the reason the safety parts below fail in the first place. If you replace a blown part without clearing the vent, the new part fails too. Our guide on how to clean a dryer vent walks through it.

Is the lint screen clean?

Clean it, and if it looks clean, wash it with warm soapy water. Fabric softener sheets leave an invisible film that blocks airflow, and a screen that holds water instead of letting it pass through is a screen that is starving the dryer of air.

Track A: electric dryers

An electric dryer makes heat with a coiled element, a little like a large toaster. Electricity passes through a chain of parts on the way there, and a break anywhere in that chain means no heat.

Half a breaker

This is the one people never think of. An electric dryer uses two circuits joined together in a double breaker. The motor runs on one half and the element needs both. If one half trips, the dryer turns on, tumbles and runs its full cycle, but never warms up. Go to the panel, switch the dryer breaker fully off and back on, even if it looks fine.

The thermal fuse

A small one time safety device that cuts power when the dryer overheats. On many models a blown fuse stops the whole dryer, while on others it only kills the heat. Either way, a blown thermal fuse is a symptom. Something made the dryer overheat, and nine times out of ten it is restricted airflow.

The heating element

Elements break like a light bulb filament: a gap opens in the coil and current stops flowing. Sometimes a break is visible as a separated coil, but often it can only be confirmed with a meter.

The high limit and cycling thermostats

These switch the element on and off to keep temperature in range. When one fails open, the element never receives power. They tend to fail after years of running hot, which again points back at airflow.

Track B: gas dryers

A gas dryer lights a burner, and the sequence that makes that happen is easy to watch. Pull out the dryer, take the small access panel off the lower front if your model has one, start a heat cycle and look through. What you see narrows it down quickly.

What you see	Likely cause
The igniter glows, then goes dark, no flame	Gas valve coils are not opening the valve. A very common and inexpensive repair.
The igniter never glows	Failed igniter, or the flame sensor or thermal fuse is preventing it from receiving power.
Flame lights, then goes out within seconds	Gas valve coils weakening as they warm up, or a problem with the gas supply.
Nothing at all happens	Check the gas shutoff valve behind the dryer is open, then the thermal fuse.

Gas work is not DIY in Ontario. Looking through the access panel is fine. Disconnecting, adjusting or replacing anything on the gas side is work for a TSSA certified technician. If you smell gas at any point, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside.

Why the same part keeps failing

We see it often: a thermal fuse replaced in spring, blown again by autumn. The dryer is not defective. It is suffocating. Long vent runs, crushed foil ducting behind the machine, a bird nest in the outdoor hood or a winter snowdrift over the flap all trap heat inside the drum. The fuse does exactly what it was designed to do. Any repair that does not include checking the airflow is half a repair.

Related: If your dryer does heat but takes two or three cycles to finish a load, that is a different problem with a different fix list. See why a dryer takes too long to dry.

Why a dryer takes too long to dry →

Dryer repair

NRPS repairs electric and gas dryers from every major brand, including elements, thermal fuses, thermostats, igniters and gas valve coils. Our technicians are TSSA certified for gas appliances, and every repair includes an airflow check so the fix lasts. Pricing is flat and confirmed before work starts, with full details on our dryer repair service page.

Fewer surprises with a care plan

If you would rather not deal with faults like this at all, an NRPS care plan includes labour, gives you priority scheduling, and covers every appliance in your home under one membership. See how the care plans work →

Cold clothes at the end of the cycle? Call (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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Appliances do not fail randomly through the year. Certain faults arrive with the cold, and they arrive every year, in the same order, for reasons that have nothing to do with the age of the appliance.

Autumn is the useful moment to deal with them, partly because the work is smaller before something fails and partly because of the timing problem at the end of this article.

The garage fridge that stops working in winter

This is the most surprising one, and it catches people out every year, usually with a freezer full of food.

A refrigerator decides when to run by sensing the air temperature around the fridge compartment. In a cold garage, that air is already colder than the target, so the fridge concludes it has nothing to do and stops running. The fridge compartment is fine, because the garage is doing the work. The freezer, however, needs to be far colder than the garage ever gets, and because the compressor is not running, it slowly thaws.

So the classic winter symptom is a garage freezer defrosting while the fridge section seems perfectly cold, which sounds impossible until you know why.

Situation	What to do
A unit rated garage ready	Nothing. These are built with a heater or a separate control strategy for exactly this.
An ordinary fridge in an unheated garage	Either keep that space above the manufacturer's minimum operating temperature, or move the food to an indoor freezer for the winter.
A chest freezer in a cold garage	Chest freezers generally cope better, but check the manual for the minimum ambient temperature before relying on it.

Worth checking in October, not January: if your garage freezer holds the family's meat supply, finding this out in February costs far more than the appliance ever did. Put a thermometer in it now and watch what happens through the first properly cold week.

The dryer vent, outside

Warm moist air leaving a dryer meets freezing air at the wall cap, and the moisture condenses and freezes there. Over a cold snap the flap can ice shut entirely, and once it does the dryer has nowhere to push its air.

The symptoms look exactly like a failing dryer: clothes needing two cycles, a laundry room that feels humid, and the machine running hot. It is also the condition that trips thermal fuses and, when ignored, contributes to dryer fires.

• Go outside on a cold day while the dryer runs and confirm air is actually coming out.

• Clear snow and ice away from the vent cap, and check it is not buried by a snowbank or blocked by drifting.

• Make sure the flap can still move freely.

Our guide to a dryer that takes too long to dry covers the three tests that tell you whether the problem is the vent, the heat or the washer.

Water lines that run through cold spaces

Any appliance plumbed into the water supply is at risk wherever its line passes through an unheated space or runs along an exterior wall. Fridge ice maker lines are the most common casualty, because they are narrow and often routed with little thought.

• A fridge ice maker that stops producing during the first cold snap is often a frozen supply line rather than an appliance fault.

• Washing machine hoses in an unheated basement or an attached garage carry the same risk, with far worse consequences if a line splits.

• If you leave the house for a stretch in winter, shutting off the water to the laundry is a small habit with a large payoff.

If the ice maker has stopped and you are not sure why, our guide to an ice maker that stopped making ice works through the four stages of the cycle.

Heavier laundry, every week

Winter loads are simply harder. Coats, snow pants, heavy bedding and towels are denser and hold far more water than summer laundry, and that lands on the two parts of a washer that already work hardest.

• Spin and balance. A heavy winter load is where a weakening suspension finally announces itself, usually as banging on the spin cycle. If yours has started doing that, our guide to a washer knocking during the spin cycle explains why it is worth acting on early.

• Drying time. Thick items take much longer, which hides a developing vent problem behind an apparently reasonable explanation.

• Resist the temptation to wash one duvet or several coats as a single load. Overloading is the most common cause of winter laundry faults.

The appliances that get a workload spike

From late November the kitchen does more work in six weeks than it does in the rest of the winter combined. Ovens run for long sessions at high temperature, dishwashers run daily instead of every second day, and fridges are opened constantly and packed to capacity.

That matters because a marginal fault becomes an obvious one under load. An oven element that was quietly weakening, a dishwasher that was draining slowly, a fridge with a tired door seal: all three are far more likely to fail in December than in October, and far harder to get fixed quickly at that time of year.

The practical advice: if something has been slightly wrong for a while, deal with it in the autumn rather than waiting. Appliance repair demand peaks sharply around the holidays, and so does the cost of being without an oven.

A short autumn checklist

1. Put a thermometer in any garage fridge or freezer and watch it through the first cold week.

2. Check the dryer vent outside for ice, snow and a flap that still moves.

3. Look at where your fridge and washer water lines run, and insulate any stretch in an unheated space.

4. Clean the dryer lint screen properly, including washing it if you use dryer sheets.

5. Vacuum the fridge condenser coils, since the kitchen is about to ask more of the appliance.

6. Run the oven on a high setting for twenty minutes and confirm it still reaches temperature, well before you need it for a crowd.

7. Book anything that has been not quite right for a while.

For a year round version of this, our appliance maintenance calendar sets out what is worth doing monthly, quarterly and annually.

Appliance repair across the winter

NRPS repairs all major household appliances through the winter, including the cold weather faults above. Our pricing is flat and confirmed upfront, and you can see every appliance we cover on our services page.

Maintenance handled for you

Something already not quite right? Call (905) 572-0126 or book online.

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A cooktop with a dead burner is an annoying fault rather than an emergency, which is why people live with it for months and cook around the gap. It is also one of the more diagnosable appliance problems, because two questions narrow it down almost completely.

Question one: one burner or all of them?

This is the question that decides everything else, and it takes five seconds to answer.

What you find	Where the fault is
One burner dead, the rest fine	That burner's own components. The cooktop as a whole is healthy, and the repair is contained.
All burners dead	Power supply, the control board, or on a gas unit the gas supply itself. Nothing to do with any individual burner.
All burners weak rather than dead	Supply pressure on gas, or a voltage problem on electric.
Burners fine but the oven is dead	On a range these are often separate circuits, so this is normal and points at the oven.

A free test for the single burner case: on a gas cooktop or a coil cooktop, swap the dead burner with a working one of the same size. If the fault moves with the part, the burner or element is at fault. If the fault stays in the same position, the problem is in that position's wiring, igniter or switch. Technicians use this constantly and it costs nothing.

Question two: which kind of cooktop is it?

The components behind a burner are completely different depending on the type, so the causes do not carry over.

Gas

A gas burner that clicks but will not light is usually dealing with one of three things. The burner ports are clogged with spilled food, so the gas cannot reach the spark. The burner cap is sitting slightly out of position, which is very common after cleaning and stops the flame spreading. Or the igniter itself has failed.

A burner that lights but burns yellow and sooty instead of blue is not getting the right air to gas mixture, and that is worth looking at rather than ignoring.

If nothing clicks at all on any burner, the control module that drives the igniters is the usual cause.

Gas work is regulated in Ontario. Cleaning burner ports and reseating a burner cap are homeowner jobs. Anything involving the gas valve, the orifices, the supply line or the igniter wiring is not. Gas appliance work requires the appropriate certification. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas utility's emergency line first.

Electric coil

The simplest type and the easiest to diagnose. Coils plug into a socket, so a coil that does not heat is usually either the element itself or the socket it plugs into, which can burn and pit over time. The swap test above settles which in a minute. Burnt or discoloured contacts in the socket are a repair rather than something to keep using.

Glass or ceramic

The elements sit under the glass surface, so nothing is accessible, and the usual failures are the element, the infinite switch that controls its power, or the surface sensor. A specific pattern worth knowing: if a burner heats but will not hold a low setting, cycling hard between full heat and nothing, that normally points at the switch rather than the element.

Cracks in the glass are a different matter. A cracked ceramic surface should be taken out of use, because liquid reaching the element underneath creates an electrical hazard.

Induction

Induction cooktops fail differently, and often what looks like a fault is not one.

• The pan is not magnetic. Induction only works with ferrous cookware. If a fridge magnet does not stick to the base of the pan, the cooktop cannot heat it, and that is the appliance working correctly.

• The pan is too small. Most induction zones need the pan to cover a minimum diameter before they will switch on at all.

• It shut itself down. Induction units have cooling fans and will stop if they overheat, often because the vents underneath are obstructed.

• A genuine fault. Usually the induction coil or the control board, both of which need diagnosis.

The causes that apply to any type

• A tripped breaker, including one half of a double breaker, which can leave part of a cooktop alive and part dead.

• Control lock. Most modern cooktops have a child lock that disables the controls entirely, and it can be switched on by accident. The manual will say how to clear it.

• A failed control board, which tends to produce erratic behaviour across several burners rather than one clean failure.

• Spills under the controls, which cause intermittent faults that come and go with no obvious pattern.

What you can safely check

1. Establish whether it is one burner or all of them.

2. Check the breaker, including both halves of a double breaker.

3. Check the control lock is not engaged.

4. On gas, lift the burner cap, confirm it is seated correctly, and clear the ports with a pin or a stiff brush once the cooktop is cold.

5. On coil, swap two elements and see whether the fault moves.

6. On induction, test the pan with a magnet and check the vents are clear.

7. On any type, clean around the controls in case a spill is causing intermittent behaviour.

Cooktop repair

NRPS repairs cooktops of every type, including gas, electric coil, ceramic and induction, from all major brands, on both built in cooktops and freestanding ranges. Igniters, elements, switches, sensors and control faults are routine work. Our pricing is flat and confirmed upfront, and the details are on our cooktop repair service page. If the oven below is also misbehaving, that is a separate system and our guide to an oven not heating properly covers it.

Fewer surprises with a care plan

Burner out? Call (905) 572-0126 or book online, and tell us whether it is one burner or all of them when you call.

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A freezer usually fails quietly. There is no alarm, just a slow thaw that you discover when the ice cream is soft or a bag of vegetables has refrozen into a solid block. By then, every hour matters.

NRPS repairs chest freezers, upright freezers and the freezer side of combination units. Our first priority on every visit is to get the temperature back down before your food is lost.

Freezer faults we repair

• Not freezing, or holding too high a temperature: a failed evaporator fan, defrost fault, start relay or control problem.

• Heavy frost or ice build-up: a door or lid that is not sealing, or a frost-free system that has stopped defrosting.

• Running non-stop: dirty condenser coils, a weak seal or a sensor that never reaches its target.

• Water pooling inside or underneath: a blocked defrost drain, often frozen solid.

• Clicking without the compressor starting: typically a start relay or overload fault, which needs prompt attention.

• Noisy fans or vibration: worn fan motor bearings or a fan blade striking ice.

• Lid or door not closing properly: hardened gaskets, bent hinges or an uneven floor.

• Control panel or display faults: failed thermostats, sensors and electronic controls.

Models we service: Chest freezers, frost-free and manual defrost upright freezers, drawer freezers and built-in column freezers.

Quick checks while you wait

• Close a sheet of paper in the door or lid and pull it. If it slides out easily, the seal is letting warm air in.

• Check where the freezer stands. A unit in an unheated or very hot space can struggle at temperature extremes.

• After changing the temperature setting, give it a full day to settle before judging the result.

Good to know: sealed system repairs, meaning refrigerant leaks and compressor replacement, are outside our standard freezer service. We will tell you straight away if the diagnosis leads there.

Clear, upfront pricing

You get a fixed repair price before we start, not an hourly bill. The service call includes the visit and full diagnosis, and it comes off the total if you approve the repair. Decide not to go ahead, and you pay only for the service call.

Brands we repair

Frigidaire, Whirlpool, GE, Kenmore, Maytag, Samsung, LG, Electrolux, Amana, Inglis, Sub-Zero and Thermador. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Why does my fridge run constantly?

• Seasonal appliance maintenance calendar

Care plans

An NRPS care plan covers your freezer alongside every other appliance in the home, with labour included and priority booking. Compare care plans →

Freezer thawing? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 now and keep the door closed until we arrive.

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A refrigerator is the one appliance in your home that never gets a day off. When it stops holding temperature, you are not only dealing with a broken machine, you are on a clock, with groceries and money at stake. NRPS technicians repair refrigerators of every style, and most visits end with the fridge cooling again the same day.

We arrive with the parts that fail most often, find the actual cause instead of guessing, and give you a firm price before any work begins.

Refrigerator problems we fix

• Not cooling or slowly warming up: usually an evaporator fan, a defrost fault or a condenser that cannot release heat. We confirm which one before replacing anything.

• Fridge warm, freezer cold: a classic sign of a defrost failure or an air damper stuck closed between the compartments.

• Water leaking inside or onto the floor: blocked defrost drains, a cracked water line, a failing inlet valve or a loose filter housing.

• Running constantly: worn door seals, dirty condenser coils or a sensor reporting the wrong temperature.

• Food freezing in the fresh food section: often a faulty thermistor, a control board fault or a damper stuck open.

• Loud or unusual noises: fan motors, start relays and ice maker valves are the usual sources.

• Ice and water dispenser faults: frozen fill tubes, failed valves and worn dispenser switches.

• Damaged door gaskets: torn or hardened seals that let warm air in and push up energy use.

Models we service: French door, side by side, top freezer, bottom freezer, counter-depth and built-in refrigerators, including panel-ready units.

Before you book, check these three things

• Make sure the temperature control has not been bumped. A fridge should sit around 3 to 4 degrees Celsius.

• Vacuum the condenser coils at the bottom or back. Dust and pet hair alone can stop a fridge from cooling properly.

• Move food away from the air vents at the back of each compartment so cold air can circulate.

About sealed system repairs: refrigerant leaks and compressor replacement are not part of our standard refrigerator service. If our diagnosis points there, we tell you immediately so you can decide your next step with full information.

Clear, upfront pricing

Refrigerator repairs are flat-rate and quoted before work starts. The service call covers the visit and a complete diagnosis, and it is credited toward the repair when you go ahead. If you decide the fridge is not worth fixing, the service call is all you pay.

Brands we repair

Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Maytag, Bosch, Electrolux, Kenmore, Café, Monogram, Sub-Zero, Fisher & Paykel, Miele, Thermador, Amana and Inglis. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Why is my fridge warm but the freezer cold?

• Why is my fridge leaking water?

• Why does my fridge run constantly?

• What each fridge noise means

Care plans

Refrigerators are covered under every NRPS care plan, with labour included and priority scheduling when something goes wrong. Compare care plans →

Fridge warming up? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online for a same-day visit.

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Wine is unforgiving about temperature. A few weeks too warm, or a cooler that swings up and down every day, can age a bottle faster than years in a proper cellar. When a wine cooler stops holding steady, the cost is measured in bottles.

NRPS repairs freestanding, under-counter and built-in wine coolers, including single and dual-zone models, and we treat a collection with the care it deserves.

Two very different ways to keep wine cool

Most compressor wine coolers work like a small refrigerator and handle warm rooms well. Thermoelectric coolers have no compressor at all. They use an electronic module and fans, which makes them quiet and vibration free, but they lose capacity in warm rooms and fail in different ways. Knowing which type you own tells us where to start.

Wine cooler problems we fix

• Too warm or not cooling at all: failed fans, thermostats, control boards or start components.

• Temperature swinging up and down: a faulty sensor, a weak door seal or a control that cycles incorrectly.

• One zone not cooling on a dual-zone unit: zone-specific fans, sensors or dampers.

• Thermoelectric cooler slowly losing performance: a failing thermoelectric module or one of its two fans.

• Excess vibration or noise: worn fans and mounts. Vibration disturbs sediment, so it is worth fixing.

• Frost or ice on the back wall: a defrost or sensor issue causing over-cooling.

• Condensation on the glass door: a worn gasket or a failed door heater on some models.

• Display errors, lighting or control faults: touch panels, LED lighting and electronic controls.

Models we service: Freestanding, under-counter and built-in wine coolers, column wine units and beverage centres, with compressor or thermoelectric cooling.

Help your wine cooler work less hard

• Keep the front vent clear. Under-counter models breathe through the grille at the bottom, and blocking it overheats the unit.

• Keep it away from ovens, dishwashers and direct sunlight.

• If you have a thermoelectric model, keep it in a room that stays cool. It can only lower the temperature so far below the room around it.

Please note: refrigerant leaks and compressor replacement are outside our standard wine cooler service. We confirm this during diagnosis before any work is done.

Clear, upfront pricing

Wine cooler repairs are flat-rate, with the price agreed before any work. Your service call covers the visit and the full diagnosis, and it is credited toward the repair if you proceed. If you choose not to repair, the service call is the only charge.

Brands we repair

Sub-Zero, Miele, Fisher & Paykel, Thermador, Monogram, Café, Bosch, Electrolux, Frigidaire, Whirlpool and KitchenAid. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Seasonal appliance maintenance calendar

Care plans

Wine coolers are included in NRPS care plans, so labour is covered and a fault gets priority scheduling before it reaches your collection. Compare care plans →

Protect the collection. Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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There are two kinds of ice maker in most homes, and they fail in different ways. One lives inside the freezer of your refrigerator. The other is a standalone undercounter machine that makes clear ice for a bar or kitchen island. NRPS repairs both.

Ice maker faults are often caused by something outside the ice maker itself, like the water supply, the filter or the freezer temperature. That is why we test the whole system before replacing parts.

Ice maker problems we fix

• No ice at all: a failed inlet valve, a frozen fill tube, a freezer that is too warm or a faulty ice maker module.

• Small, hollow or misshapen cubes: low water pressure, a clogged filter or a valve that is not opening fully.

• Ice clumping or fused in the bin: temperature swings or a dispenser that is rarely used.

• Water leaking under the fridge or machine: a cracked supply line, loose fittings or an overflowing ice mould.

• Dispenser not releasing ice: a jammed auger, failed motor or worn dispenser switch.

• Undercounter machine producing slowly: mineral scale, a dirty condenser or a failing water pump.

• Cloudy, soft or bad-tasting ice: scale build-up, an old filter or a machine due for cleaning.

• Drain pump faults on undercounter units: machines installed without a floor drain rely on a pump that can fail.

Models we service: Refrigerator and freezer ice makers, door dispensers, and undercounter and built-in clear ice machines.

Before you book

• Check the ice maker is switched on. Many have a wire arm or a switch that is easy to knock into the off position.

• Replace the water filter if it is older than about six months.

• Make sure the water shutoff valve behind the fridge is fully open and the line is not kinked.

Please note: sealed system work is not part of our standard ice maker service. If the cooling system itself has failed, we tell you before anything else happens.

Clear, upfront pricing

Ice maker repairs come with a firm price before we begin. The service call pays for the visit and a full diagnosis, and it is credited toward the repair if you go ahead. If you decline the repair, you only pay the service call.

Brands we repair

Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Maytag, Café, Monogram, Sub-Zero, Bosch, Scotsman and U-Line. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Why is my ice maker not making ice?

• Why is my fridge leaking water?

Care plans

Ice makers are covered under NRPS care plans along with the rest of your appliances, with labour included and priority visits. Compare care plans →

Out of ice? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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A modern coffee machine packs a heater, a pump, a grinder, valves and electronics into a small space, and it works hard every morning. Built-in and bean-to-cup machines are serious investments, and they are worth repairing well.

NRPS repairs home espresso machines, fully automatic bean-to-cup machines and built-in coffee systems. Most faults we see come back to the same root cause, and we fix that too, so the problem does not return.

Scale: the cause behind most coffee machine faults

Every cup leaves a little mineral behind. Over months, that scale narrows water paths, coats the heater and sticks valves. The result is slow brewing, lukewarm coffee, leaks and pumps that work harder than they should. Many of the repairs below start with scale, so we descale and flush the system as part of the job.

Coffee machine problems we fix

• Not heating or coffee lukewarm: heating element, thermoblock or temperature sensor faults, often made worse by scale.

• Pump runs but no water comes through: a blocked water path, an airlocked system or a failing pump.

• Leaking underneath: worn seals and O-rings, cracked tubing or an overflowing drip tray sensor.

• Weak or watery coffee: grinder wear, an incorrect dose, or a brew unit that is not compressing properly.

• Grinder jammed or silent: oily beans, foreign objects or a worn grinder motor.

• Steam wand not steaming: a blocked wand, scale in the steam circuit or a failed valve.

• Error messages that will not clear: sensors, brew unit position switches or a descale counter needing reset.

• Brew unit stuck or not seating: a drive motor or gear problem inside the machine.

Models we service: Semi-automatic espresso machines, fully automatic bean-to-cup machines and built-in coffee systems.

Habits that prevent most repairs

• Descale on the schedule your machine recommends, with the descaler its manufacturer specifies.

• Empty the grounds container and drip tray daily, and rinse the brew unit weekly if yours is removable.

• Avoid very oily or flavoured beans in bean-to-cup machines. They coat the grinder and cause jams.

Booking tip: note the exact model and any error message before you call. It helps us bring the right parts the first time.

Clear, upfront pricing

Coffee machine repairs are priced at a flat rate that we confirm before starting. The service call covers the visit and diagnosis, and it is credited to the repair if you approve it. If you decide against the repair, you pay the service call only.

Brands we repair

Miele, Jura, De'Longhi, Breville, Bosch, Thermador, Gaggia, Saeco, Philips, KitchenAid, Café and Monogram. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Seasonal appliance maintenance calendar

Care plans

Coffee machines are included in NRPS care plans, so a morning without coffee is fixed with labour covered and priority scheduling. Compare care plans →

Machine out of action? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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Many dishwasher problems look worse than they are. A machine full of standing water or a rack of cloudy glasses often comes down to a clogged filter, a blocked drain path or a small failed part.

Leaks are the exception. Water escaping under a dishwasher can soak the subfloor and cabinets out of sight, so we treat a leaking dishwasher as a priority call.

Dishwasher problems we fix

• Not draining: a clogged filter, blocked drain hose, failed drain pump or a disposal connection problem.

• Leaking onto the floor: door gaskets, spray arm seals, pump seals, hoses and inlet valve connections.

• Dishes still dirty: blocked spray arms, a weak wash pump, low water temperature or a faulty inlet valve.

• Dishes not drying: heating element, vent, fan or rinse aid dispenser faults.

• Not filling with water: an inlet valve, float switch or water supply problem.

• Will not start: door latches, door switches, control boards and child lock settings.

• Detergent not dissolving: a dispenser that does not open, or water that never gets hot enough.

• Error codes, blinking lights or odours: sensor and control faults, or trapped food and standing water.

Models we service: Built-in, panel-ready, compact and drawer dishwashers, including stainless steel and plastic tub models.

Worth a try before you call

• Remove and rinse the filter at the bottom of the tub. A blocked filter causes more dishwasher calls than any part.

• Run the kitchen tap until the water is hot before starting a cycle.

• If a garbage disposal was just installed, check that the knockout plug inside its dishwasher inlet was removed.

If it is leaking: stop running it, turn off the water supply valve under the sink and wipe up what you can. Water under a dishwasher spreads further than it looks.

Clear, upfront pricing

Dishwasher repairs are flat-rate, with the price confirmed upfront. The service call covers the visit and a full diagnosis, and it is deducted from the repair total if you go ahead. If you decide not to repair, you pay only for the service call.

Brands we repair

Bosch, Miele, KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, Frigidaire, Maytag, Electrolux, Thermador, Fisher & Paykel, Café and Monogram. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Why is my dishwasher not draining?

Care plans

Your dishwasher is covered under every NRPS care plan, with labour included and priority scheduling when it acts up. Compare care plans →

Dishwasher acting up? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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Dryers fail in predictable ways, and most repairs are quick. Two things set our dryer repairs apart. We check the airflow on every visit, because a restricted vent is the hidden cause behind many repeat failures. And all of our gas dryer work is done by TSSA certified technicians.

Whether your dryer runs on gas or electricity, we diagnose the fault, give you a firm price and fix it, usually in a single visit.

Dryer problems we fix

• No heat: a blown thermal fuse, heating element, thermostats, gas igniter or gas valve coils.

• Taking too long to dry: restricted airflow, a weak heat source or a moisture sensor fault.

• Drum not turning: a broken belt, worn idler pulley or a failed drive motor.

• Squealing, thumping or scraping: worn drum rollers, idler pulley, drum glides or bearings.

• Shutting off mid-cycle: overheating, a failing motor or a faulty thermostat.

• Will not start: door switches, start switches, thermal fuses and control boards.

• Running too hot: a blocked vent or a cycling thermostat stuck closed. This one is a fire risk.

• Ending cycles early with damp clothes: dirty moisture sensor bars or a control fault.

Models we service: Electric and gas dryers, front load and top load models, stacked laundry centres and condensation and heat pump dryers.

Three checks that solve more than you would expect

• Wash the lint screen in warm soapy water. Dryer sheets leave a film that blocks airflow even when it looks clean.

• For an electric dryer that tumbles without heat, switch its double breaker fully off and back on.

• Run the dryer and check the outdoor vent flap. It should open with a strong flow of warm air.

If you smell gas: do not operate any switches. Leave the house and call your gas utility from outside.

Clear, upfront pricing

Dryer repairs are flat-rate, and you approve the price before we start. The service call covers the visit and full diagnosis, and it is taken off the total if you go ahead. If you choose not to repair, you pay only the service call.

Brands we repair

Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Maytag, GE, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Amana, Inglis, Bosch, Miele and Speed Queen. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Dryer not heating? Start with gas or electric

• Why is my dryer taking too long to dry?

• How to clean a dryer vent

Care plans

Dryers are covered under NRPS care plans, with labour included and priority booking whenever a fault appears. Compare care plans →

Damp laundry piling up? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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A washing machine is the appliance most likely to cause water damage when it fails, and the one most households notice within a day. Modern washers are also far more electronic than they used to be, so the right diagnosis matters more than ever.

NRPS repairs front load and top load washers from every major brand. We find the cause, confirm the price with you, and in most cases have the machine running again on the first visit.

Washer problems we fix

• Not draining: a clogged drain pump filter, blocked hose, failed drain pump or lid switch.

• Not spinning: a worn belt, motor or drive fault, a door lock problem or an unbalanced load sensor.

• Leaking: door gaskets, pump seals, inlet hoses, dispenser housings and tub seals.

• Knocking or banging during spin: worn shock absorbers, suspension springs or drum bearings.

• Door will not lock or unlock: door lock assemblies and the switches that control them.

• Not filling with water: inlet valves, water pressure and supply hose screens.

• Musty smell or mould: trapped water and residue in the gasket, filter and drain system.

• Error codes or a dead control panel: sensors, wiring and control boards.

Models we service: Front load and top load washers, high-efficiency agitator and impeller models, compact washers and stacked laundry centres.

Before you book

• On a front loader, clean the drain pump filter behind the small panel at the bottom front.

• Redistribute the load and run a spin cycle on its own. A single heavy item can stop a washer from spinning.

• Check the inlet hoses behind the machine are not kinked and both water taps are fully open.

If it is leaking: stop the cycle, turn off both water taps behind the washer and unplug it before mopping up.

Clear, upfront pricing

Washer repairs come with a fixed price agreed before any work. The service call covers the visit and full diagnosis, and it is credited toward the repair if you go ahead. If you decide not to repair, the service call is your only cost.

Brands we repair

LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Electrolux, Frigidaire, Bosch, Miele, Speed Queen, Kenmore, Amana and Inglis. See all brands we service →

Helpful guides

• Washer not draining? Work through it in this order

• Why does my washer knock during the spin cycle?

Care plans

Your washer is covered under every NRPS care plan, with labour included and priority scheduling when laundry day goes wrong. Compare care plans →

Washer stopped mid-cycle? Call +1 (437) 518-3415 or book online.

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In-door ice systems are among the most common repairs we do."}],"active":true},{"id":12,"name":"Coffee Machine Repair","slug":"coffee-machine-repair","shortDescription":"Espresso machine not heating, leaking or brewing weak coffee? NRPS repairs bean-to-cup, espresso and built-in coffee machines.","iconKey":"coffee-maker","price":350,"discountedPrice":297.5,"seoContent":"$1c","metaTitle":"Coffee Machine Repair | Espresso & Built-In Machines | NRPS","metaDescription":"Espresso machine not heating, leaking or brewing weak coffee? NRPS repairs bean-to-cup, espresso and built-in coffee machines.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImageUrl":"","ogImageAltText":"","faqs":[{"question":"How often should I descale my coffee machine?","answer":"Typically every one to three months, depending on how much coffee you make and how hard your water is. Follow your machine's indicator if it has one."},{"question":"Why is my espresso machine leaking?","answer":"Most leaks come from worn seals or O-rings, or from scale forcing water out where it should not go."},{"question":"Is it worth repairing a coffee machine?","answer":"For built-in and quality bean-to-cup machines, almost always. For an inexpensive basic machine, we will tell you plainly if replacement makes more sense."},{"question":"Do you repair built-in coffee machines?","answer":"Yes, including built-in systems from Miele, Bosch, Thermador and Monogram."},{"question":"Why does my coffee suddenly taste bitter or weak?","answer":"Scale, a dirty brew unit or a worn grinder are the usual causes. A service and descale often restores the taste."}],"active":true},{"id":4,"name":"Dishwasher Repair","slug":"dishwasher-repair","shortDescription":"Dishwasher not draining, leaking or leaving dishes dirty? NRPS repairs all major dishwasher brands with flat-rate pricing confirmed before work begins.","iconKey":"dishwasher","price":240,"discountedPrice":204,"seoContent":"$1d","metaTitle":"Dishwasher Repair | Drain, Leak & Cleaning Faults | NRPS","metaDescription":"Dishwasher not draining, leaking or leaving dishes dirty? NRPS repairs all major dishwasher brands with flat-rate pricing confirmed before work begins.","ogTitle":"Dishwasher Repair","ogDescription":"Service support for common dishwasher repair needs.","ogImageUrl":"https://images.pexels.com/photos/5018049/pexels-photo-5018049.jpeg?auto=compress&cs=tinysrgb&w=1600","ogImageAltText":"Dishwasher rack and interior inspection","faqs":[{"question":"Why is there water left in the bottom of my dishwasher?","answer":"A small amount near the filter is normal. More than that points to a clogged filter, a blocked drain hose or a drain pump fault."},{"question":"How often should I clean the dishwasher filter?","answer":"About once a month for most households, more often if you rarely pre-rinse."},{"question":"Is it worth repairing a dishwasher?","answer":"In most cases, yes. Pumps, valves, latches and heating elements are routine repairs that cost far less than replacing and installing a new machine."},{"question":"Why is my dishwasher leaking from the door?","answer":"Usually a worn door gasket, a cracked spray arm sending water at the door, or too much suds from the wrong detergent."},{"question":"Do you repair Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer models?","answer":"Yes, along with standard, compact and panel-ready dishwashers from all major brands."}],"active":true},{"id":5,"name":"Dryer Repair","slug":"dryer-repair","shortDescription":"Dryer not heating, not tumbling or taking forever to dry? 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We check the vent as part of every dryer repair so a new fuse does not fail the same way."},{"question":"Why is my dryer squeaking or thumping?","answer":"Worn drum rollers, idler pulleys and glides are the usual causes. They are routine repairs that also make the dryer quieter."},{"question":"Is a 10-year-old dryer worth repairing?","answer":"Usually yes. Dryers are mechanically simple and many run well past 15 years with the right parts replaced."},{"question":"Do you check the dryer vent during a repair?","answer":"Yes. We check airflow on every dryer visit and tell you if the vent needs cleaning."}],"active":true},{"id":1,"name":"Washing Machine Repair","slug":"washing-machine-repair","shortDescription":"Washer not draining, not spinning, leaking or banging? NRPS repairs front load and top load washing machines from all major brands.","iconKey":"washer","price":240,"discountedPrice":204,"seoContent":"$1f","metaTitle":"Washing Machine Repair | Front & Top Load Washers | NRPS","metaDescription":"Washer not draining, not spinning, leaking or banging? NRPS repairs front load and top load washing machines from all major brands.","ogTitle":"Washing Machine Repair","ogDescription":"Service support for common washing machine repair needs.","ogImageUrl":"https://images.pexels.com/photos/5591460/pexels-photo-5591460.jpeg?auto=compress&cs=tinysrgb&w=1600","ogImageAltText":"Technician working on a washing machine","faqs":[{"question":"Is it worth repairing a washing machine?","answer":"Usually. Pumps, door locks, shock absorbers and belts are routine repairs. Bearing replacement on older machines is the one case where we may suggest comparing the cost with a new washer."},{"question":"Why does my washer shake or walk across the floor?","answer":"An unbalanced load, an unlevel machine, or worn shock absorbers and suspension springs."},{"question":"Why does my front load washer smell?","answer":"Water and residue trapped in the door gasket and drain system. Leaving the door open between washes and cleaning the filter helps a great deal."},{"question":"Why will my washer door not open?","answer":"The door stays locked while water remains inside or if the lock assembly has failed. Never force it."},{"question":"Do you repair stacked washer and dryer units?","answer":"Yes, including stacked laundry centres and all-in-one units."}],"active":true}],"headerStyle":1,"footerStyle":2,"breadcrumbTitle":"Page Not Found","breadcrumbImage":false,"children":"$L20"}]]